Nail Application Troubleshooting 101

There’s numerous ways to apply press on nails and each persons nail beds are created differently. So what works for her may not work for you and vise versa. 

Below I’m going to list out some different techniques and application processes for you to try if you are having issues with your nails not lasting like they should. 

Press on nails should last 2-4 weeks with only an occasional “pop off” due to treatment of the nail, or improper prep. 

Let’s get started!

• ACETONE! 100% pure acetone is a PERFECT dehydrator. Better than isopropyl alcohol and stronger. I recommend doing a good dehydration of the natural nail using100% acetone on a lint free wipe or cotton ball if need be, after you’ve “roughed up and buffed” the nail bed. Really rub the acetone all over to remove and dust and debris from the nail bed and saturate it with the acetone. Make sure afterwards your nail bed is DRY before applying any glue or sticker tabs as acetone if still wet will act as a removing agent instead of bonding the nail. And DO NOT touch your nail beds with your fingers as your fingers/ skin contain natural oils that will reverse everything you just did.
• ROUGH IT UP! Your natural nail bed should NOT be smooth when applying the press on nail. It needs a rough and grit like surface to adhere best. So buff or file the nail bed up and remove the dust (as mentioned above) before applying the nail or glue. But be careful not to damage your natural nails by being too abrasive. 
• GENTLY BUT FIRM! When you have your glue on your natural nail bed ready to go and you apply your press on at a 45 degree angle (cuticle to free edge) use firm BUT gentle pressure. Insuring the nail is in place but NOT letting any glue seep out of the sides or free edge underneath. This is a CRITICAL part. We all think by nature “Press harder it’ll stick better” but that is completely FALSE! You need to imagine that you're almost floating the nail on top of the glue but holding firm enough in place to ensure it’ll stay. You also need as much glue as possible to guarantee there is enough glue to hold the nail there and seal properly. Seeping glue or to hard of pressure just creates gaps , greenies, and a weak seal because the nail once let go of will always try to pop upward to release the pressure you created by holding to tightly down. So GENTLE BUT FIRM!
• 60-90 SECONDS A NAIL! You hear everyone say “ I applied my nails in 5 minutes” and while you can definitely do that, if you are having retention issues, you can’t!  You need to GENTLY but FIRMLY hold the nail in place for 60-90 seconds for liquid glue and 90-120 seconds for gap filling glues) NEVER USE UV REQUIRED GEL it is NOT GLUE !! The reason you need to hold them at this time length is to ensure enough of the glue has dried where you want it to. It’s that simple. Set a timer if you need to and relax. Remember even at 2 minutes a nail it’s still ONLY 20 minutes for a beautiful at home salon quality set of nails ;)
• PROPER SIZING! are you sure you have the best sizes for your nails? If you are in between sizes always GO UP and you can file slightly down the sides. You may want to pull out that old sizing kit again just to make sure you have the best sizes picked out for your nails. 
• GLUE! The glue can make a difference for many people! Have flatter nail beds? You need a gap filling glue like “Dashing Diva Fast Bond” (found at Sally’s beauty) Have issues keeping the glue where you want it and not all over your hands? Try “Beauty Secrets Glue”(found at Sallys Beauty) for a precision tip applicator. Each of Claws. prep kits contain a baseline consistency glue that is known to work for majority of clients so always try that first! or just want a few days to a week wear with easy application and removal?Try Nail Adhesive Tabs (availible now on Clawsbylauren.com) There are many options out there try bush on glues or amazon glues whatever it may be. But my top picks are 1) Dashing Diva  Gap Filling Glue 2) Makartt (included in prep kit) 3) Beauty Secrets 4) GlueTabs!
• TIME OF APPLICATION! The time when you apply your nails is an amazing way to ensure longevity! Do not put your hands in water for at least 1 hour after application (I recommend 12-24 hours).So when is best time? Right Before Bed! This way they have all night to seal and settle and no need to worry about water or activities for at least 8 hours (I hope cause we all need a good beauty sleep am I right? ;) So give this tip a try! It’s my favorite one!
• CUTICLES! Push them back and trim them (if you are comfortable) The cuticle is the first thing to cause nail lifting and therefore pop offs! So get that cuticle area nice and clean before applying any glue or nails
• RUSHING! Just DON’T DO IT! Practice makes progress , I promise! I’m am to the point I under prep my nails because they last TOO LONG for me, you will get there. You just have to find your perfect prep process and it’ll be amazing when you realize your own personal secrets to long lasting claws.
• 45 DEGREE ANGLE! This step is non negotiable for natural looking nails and nail retention. Applying your press ons at a 45 degree angle starting at the cuticle and pressing down into that cuticle area creates the first great seal barrier. Then as you continue to lay down the nail until reaching the free edge (area at top near finger tip) it allows all the glue in the middle to spread evenly and reach the tip of the free edge creating the second needed seal! And of course pressing down with Gentle BUT Firm pressure the whole time and do not release that nail for60-90 seconds minimum for the best hold. 
• SHAPE & LENGTH! Is the shape and length your choosing the best for your everyday life? Are you bumping your nails/hands a lot and using them to open items rather than your finger tips? Sometimes we have to evaluate your everyday life/ career and find a better length or even shape to fit your lifestyle.

I could talk forever about prep and tips and I’ll continue to add more here as I run into conversations with customers and troubleshoot any issues with them. There are just the FIRST steps and places I look when conversing with customers about application issues.

If you have any questions or issues please feel free to email me, Lauren, at contact@clawsbylauren.com and I am happy to help! :)